What do I need to do the swap (applies to 2RZ and 3RZ)?
First, I highly recommend that you read the following:
- The official 3RZ knowledgebase thread on MarlinCrawler
- Pirate4x4 Toyota section also has a wealth of posts, but you’ll need to register to search.
Parts references and buying OEM parts:
- http://www.japan-parts.eu (lookup of OEM Tacoma parts)
- https://toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com (best price online for OEM parts)
- Chilat Motor Mounts $139 – You need to get a modern motor into a not-so-modern truck. These keep everything else where it was.
Myself and at least 3 other people had issues with the Chilkat mounts. They left the passenger side of the motor too low and essentially slightly rotated the motor enough that the transmission mount was stressed:
Chilkat (Alex) indicated that he’d help out if there were any problems with the mounts, but all 3 of us reported the issue and zero solutions were offered. These are popular mounts and we may have simply got a bad batch. As of 12/24/14 – we’re still waiting for him to stand behind the mounts.
Looking at correcting this, one option is to use 2003 Tacoma 2rz / 3rz motor mount on the passenger side. It appears to be taller, at least less settled:
The following info was provided by Ryan V (thanks Ryan):
If you order a motor isolator from a 2003 Tacoma, the part number is: 12361-35090. It’s been replaced by part number 12361-35091:
Part Number: 12361-35091
Part: FRONT MOUNT
You can buy this mount (shipped) for $55.34 Camelback Toyota Parts
As of 12/2014, you may still have to shim the Chilkat mounts to get proper alignment, I don’t recommend washers, but here is a photo:
or build your own:
Oh Gawd, the oil pan!
Honestly, this is one of the largest PITA’s on the whole swap. If I was going to do it again, and do it on a budget, I’d cut the factory oil pan about 1.5″ below the motor all the way around. I’d then mate that to a 22RE oil pan – just tack weld it. Note, I was warned that this thing needs to be mounted to a block to keep from deforming.. If you do that, cover the internals.. Then you get to install the motor and remove it about 8 times until you get the thing to fit.
For trucks that have been SAS’d, it’s a non issue. Just order the following:
- T100 oil pan, new dipstick setup, modify the T100 pan to clear the stock IFS. Or get them from Chilat for $260. Here is the how-to. Note the plug that sure looks like a great place for a turbo return line… Note, that the T100 oil pan must be modified to clear the 1st generation IFS trucks…. Plug the old dipstick hole with a 17/32″ freeze plug (doorman part number 555-007). If you want to source it yourself, here’s what you buy:
- 12101-75060 Oil Pan, (T100 2wd 2.7L, 6 qts)
- 15104-75020 Pickup Tube & Strainer, (T100 2wd 2.7L)
- 11494-75010 Oil Hole Plate, (T100 2wd 2.7L)
- 15147-75020 Oil Strainer Gasket, (T100 2wd 2.7L)
- 15301-75020 Oil Gage (Dipstick), (T100 2wd 2.7L)
- 11409-75020 Oil Gage Guide (Dipstick), (T100 2wd 2.7L)
- 91651-60614 Bolts (Oil Hole plate), (4) Req’d
- 00295-00103 FIPG (Form in Place Gasket material)
Note, the T100 sump will touch the diff on the 1988 4Runner IFS, so it needs to be modified… Here is my collection of different ways that the pan can be modified to clear:
Here’s how close it is without a pan:
The first set is modifying the rear sump 2rz pan:
As there is no good pattern for doing this, you can contact NWToyotaTeam – they can do it for you, but it’s expensive at $600 (your T100 pan)… Better to buy the pan and kit from them. Per NWToyota:
“We usually provide the 22R 4×4 pan and pickup because they are a plentiful item, the rear sump 2RZ pan is hard to find and we usually have to buy new. The 22R oil pickup mounts to the block the 2rz oil pickup mounts to the timing cover. We dont use the 2RZ pickup tube because it drops down to much before it curves and won’t work with the steering setup in the early trucks. That is why we use a 22R 4×4 modified pickup to work in the modified IFS pan.
Basically all we need is the rear sump pan.”
Update with these guys, of the 2 pans that I know of, we’ve had problems:
- RyanV’s build – the oil pickup flange was warped (by welding) and would not seal. This is not obvious and could have easily ruined a motor at start up. NWToyota was informed but my understanding is that they didn’t offer any resolution:
- My build. After installing this pan, putting the motor in the truck, I had a light “clank” when rotating. I believe that the crank was hitting the pickup tube…
Here’s a look at pans they’ve done:
Here is a look at the pan that I bought:
Warnings if you buy this particular pan setup:
- You need to drop your steering Stabilizer down to clear the pan if you’ve got IFS:
- It will not fit without removing the drivers side transmission support “wing”.
- To get that wing on, you’ll need to grind about 1/2″ off of it. (see below)
- Mine did not fit quite right. A few of the bolts probably were not bolted down when they welded it. I had to drill all the pan holes +1mm, and then use a brass punch to help align the pan to the block.
- The transmission bolt that goes THROUGH the wing (doesn’t thread on to) must be installed before installing the transmission. When you stab the transmission, you need to thread this bolt on there at the same time. There is no way to get it in after the transmission is stabbed and the oil pan on.
Turbo Oil feed:
It looks like the existing filter assembly can be tapped used by simply unplugging one of the stock plugs.. Correct size is: M16x1.5. Adapt this to the AN size of your choice.
In my case, I’m using a 4AN oil feed hose, so I’m shopping for a -4 AN to M16x1.5 Straight Adapter, $3-$7:
If you want the details on the turbo stuff, try my other post: http://www.2rzturbo.net/?p=36
Turbo oil Drain:
I used a 5/8″ drain off ebay. If I was doing it again, I’d just use 1/2″. Nothing like welding on a $700 oil pan to make you nervous. Don’t do what I did, which is weld the drain in the way of an oil pan bolt.
What manifold do I get for the turbo?
The best manifold you can buy (IMHO) is offered by Steed Speed – it’s CNC cut and welded halves. I’ve run these on the 22RE with great success, they’re $750 direct from Steed Speed. They come ceramic coated.
I bought a cast manifold from TreadStone performance, it’s a little less than half the cost @ $350, but favors the cylinder 3 & 4. Cast should be fine.
KOA racing also has a manifold (stainless) that is worth considering at $450.00:
I do not recommend “log style” pipe steel manifolds. Yes, they’re cheap. Yes, they warp… Yes, they won’t last long.
Note: Replacing the OEM manifold nuts (locking hardware) – Toyota PN 90179-10175 (M10x1.25)
Turbo Intake Piping
This is going to be a figure-it-out-yourself bit. Basically, I used an 1R1 RX7 turbo that I built into the skid plate. From there, I plumb the whole deal with 2″ aluminum intake and a BOV.
Here’s a look at building it:
Running the intake:
Throttle body and vacuum hoses:
There are 3 vacuum hoses that you need to be concerned with:
- Rear Valve Cover
- Front Valve Cover
- IAC hose
The front valve cover hose and IAC hose are have no provisions for boost. That is, if you turbocharge, you’re going to be shooting boost into the valve cover (bad), and you’d be leaking boost out of the IAC (bad). The rear valve cover hose has a check valve so it’s fine. To fix the situation, add a check valve to the front valve cover hose and either add a check valve to the IAC or plumb it into boost before the throttle body, this way it can’t leak pressure:
Radiator hoses and Radiator:
My plan is to use the 3-core 22RE radiator. Apparently new hoses are necessary, at least on the lower, use a Gates #20850
On the upper, if you’ve got a turbo, a Gates PN 23528 may be a good alternative, KO Racing has a video on it.
Water cooled turbo – how to run the coolant lines?
Here is the factory coolant path…for the 22RE and 2RZ. Heater hoses are 5/8.
I used the feed that fees the throttle body, but I didn’t want to loop the coolant all the way back – too much hose and because the return was lower on the radiator than the turbo, it wouldn’t be able to thermosyphon when turned off…
I used 5/16 line to feed the turbo coolant, basically making a T off the feeds for the throttle body. The return will be into the radiator.
A garrett ball bearing turbo threads are M14x1.5. Journal bearing turbos are different thread.
So apparently there are 3 ways to deal with the AC on a 1st generation 4runner conversion:
1) Keep the 2rz/3rz compressor and use the top of a 1988 V6 (3.0) 4runner compressor – I’m told that the factory 4runner AC lines will then adapt to the 2rz/3rz compressor. Convert to R134a. Unconfirmed. Note, apparently if you are swapping into a 1989-1993 22RE truck, that manifold is the same as the 2rz/3rz manifold. Simply swap the manifold and keep the 2rz/3rz compressor with the right clutch and belt:
3) Keep the 22RE 4runner compressor intact. Leave it in the truck when pulling the motor and don’t break the seal on the refrigerant… This is what I did
NOTE NOTE NOTE: Factory Tach needs to work to turn on the compressor!
I chose to use the 22RE AC compressor with the 2RZ. Note that there are at least 2 styles of compressor on the 1st gen 4runner, so your mileage may vary… The trick is to use an AC compressor clutch from a first generation Toyota MR2. If you use the Chilkat mounts, you’ll need to shave one, as the 22RE compressor is about 1″ longer than the 2rz/3rz compressor.
A good write up is over on Marlin’s Forum courtesy of LiveOak, but here are the photos:
If you use the Tacoma compressor and convert your fittings over, no need to clearance the mounts. Here’s a photo with the Tacoma (2rz) compressor.
The 1988 22RE 4runner compressor, R12 is 10P15C. If you buy a new one (reman) from Denso:
Thank you for your interest in our products. This compressor is designed by Denso to be used with either R-12 or R-134A (based on the new seal types), but the lubricant in it will be based off the OE RND6 Mineral Oil, which is the original Toyota design where it used R-12. However, if a retro fit has been done on the vehicle and you are using R-134A then during the manifold swap you dump out the mineral oil and use RND Oil 8 (Toyota’s suggested oil) or similar.
The techs at Denso also state that there was a service update bulletin released by Toyota stating that during a retro fit they suggest you do 120% of the oil charge and 93% of refrigerant charge. Now I am not a technician, but the guy I talked to said that this would make sense to any trained mechanic.
The compressor clutch needs to be changed from a V-belt to a flat 4-rib belt. A compressor clutch from a 1986 MR2 bolts up and maybe from a 1991-1995 2.2L MR2 also. Note, I also found indications that a 10P15C is used by Ford Mustangs of late 80s vintage and 4-rib belts, so that’s another possibility as finding the MR2 compressor clutch is difficult.
It’s a (MR-2) 10P13C compressor. Use belt K040353-4PK897 with the 22RE compressor, MR2 compressor clutch, and 2RZ/3RZ
Apparently the MR2 clutch is no longer made or sold separately, but the part numbers are:
- FOUR SEASONS Part # 48828 (1985-1995 MR2?) – 10P
- CLUTCH – Toyota (88410-17010) $120 1985-1998 MR2
- AC Delco Reman AC154823 or 15-4823 (1991-1995 MR2 2.2L only)
- Denso 473-0152
- GM part 88918780 (use with 10P13C compressor), superseded by GM part # 19190390
Installing the MR2 Clutch:
Assuming you can find an MR2 AC clutch (they’re a bit of a pink elephant)…
I don’t like to work on AC. It’s one of the gaps in my automotive experience and I *know* that there is going to be a learning curve.
Removing the existing clutch was actually pretty easy. There’s a 10mm bolt that holds it on. You can spin it of with an impact wrench or use a something to hold the compressor clutch (special tool). Be careful with the order at which stuff comes out and there is a small washer (shim) that you need to pay attention to:
If you’re like me and HATE to work on AC or have a good working factory AC system, usually I swap motors and leave the compressor in the engine bay. I did that this time and when I tried to swap the compressor clutch, I made it way too hard. I ended up blowing the shaft seal and making a huge mess. So I went out and bought a new Denso compressor and mounted the MR2 clutch. To mount the clutch, it’s literally one nut and one large C-clip. You need to check the clutch clearance, but it’s a relatively easy job:
- 1987 Toyota 4runner: MT0953 (seems to be unavailable) (FS10 compressor. Bearing Size: 30mm I.D. x 55mm O.D. x 23mm thick)
- 1986 Toyota MR2 : MT0953 (seems to be unavailable) 10P13C compressor. Bearing Size: 40mm ID x 62mm OD x 24mm Thick.
Here it is complete and installed:
Misc Toyota Compressor Information that may or may not be useful:
Here’s a link to the catalog.
Modifying the AC Amplifier may be necessary, here are the notes:
Other solutions to getting the AC to fire, without tach signal:
Apparently you can use the AC amplifier from an FJ62, which doesn’t care about the tach wire. More details to come, but here’s the diagram:
The other option is to use a simple Automotive AC thermostat and take out the amplifier completely.. Wire this into the switch in the dash:
How do you adapt the fuel system from Toyota Banjo bolts to something more common, like AN style??
The hard part is the fuel feed. It’s a M14x1.5 Female INVERTED FLARE. These are about $20.. Alternately, you have your existing line cut and have an AN-style line brazed on.
Here’s the post on pirate4x4 that discusses it.
I converted all fuel in-flow to 6AN:
The banjo bolts that toyota uses on the 22re, 2rz, and 3rz fuel systems are 12mmx1.25 mm. It’s going to be particular to your application, but you can adapt a 12mm banjo to -4an or -6an at Summit racing:
The Russell Performance part number is 640910:
Note, if you want to “T” off of the factory fuel system to a 1/8 NPT fitting, you can use: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-2277, as shown here:
Setting up the clutch:
What clutch parts do I use?
- Use the W59 bell-housing, clutch, clutch slave, clutch fork, and flywheel, IE – the Tacoma parts
The clutch slave changes sides between the 22RE and the 2RZ/3RZ. This means you need to take the hard line over to the drivers side. You can do this a few ways:
- Use the “donor” line from the Tacoma or T100.
- Re-bend (use a tool) the existing 22RE line, shorten it up (put a loop in) and take it to the drivers side:
- Build a custom line. The ends of the clutch line on the 22RE 4runner are 10mmx1.0 inverted flare, here’s a look at the ends you need:
- Buy a flexible line pre-made:
- TJ Outfitters has them at $65.
- You can use Toyota brake lines, they have the same 10mm x 1.0 mm flares, you just need the correct end types. A rear brake line (body to axle) may do the job.. I’ll need to look.
- You can adapt the 10mm x 1 mm to 3AN type and run braided lines.
On my 1988, the factory power steering hose plugged in to the Tacoma pump. On a 1993 Truck a custom hose had to be made.
One alternate solution is to use a power steering pump kit for SAS (Solid Axle Swap) Tacomas, which would use the power steering pump from the 85-88.5 IFS truck.
- Tacoma SAS power steering Kit $79 @ LCEngineering
Largely, this is an exercise in matching up wiring function. I’ve included everything you need below.
On my 1988 4runner / 1999 2RZ, it was just matching wire color to function. If you use a replacement or aftermarket connector, all bets are off..
In case you want a little more info, here’s a large diagram:
Removing the factory wiring:
So, you have this big mess to start with:
I started removing, cutting back, wiring that I didn’t need. I kept a list of what I removed:
- Brown Connector / Blue Green connector Harness (factory vacuum control?)
- Diagnostic Port Harness
- Green Temp Sensor Harness
- Cold Start timer harness – integrates to starter solenoid
- Igniter / Coil harness (from the passengers side only)
- In retrospect, I probably should have used this to power up the 2rz coils.
Integrating the 2rz harness into the 4unner:
Largely I followed my diagram. I used GM weatherpack connectors, the idea was to make the 2rz easy to disconnect electrically if I had to take it out.
Wiring the temperature gauge sender, oil pressure gauge sender, and the 2rz coils:
My 1988 4runner has the SR-5 gauge set, so YMMV.
On the 22RE, the sensor for the water temperature gauge is in the lower plenum, as shown here:
Don’t confuse this with the other two water temperature senders – one for the factory ECU and one for the factory cold-start injector:
- ECU coolant temp sensor (front of motor under intake plenum, green plug)
- Cold start timer switch (front of motor under intake plenum, brown plug)
On the 2RZ/3RZ, the sensor for the water temperature gauge is at the passenger side, radiator water outlet, it’s a totally different size:
Are they compatible or do you have to swap? It looks like they are “mostly” compatible, so I chose to use the 2rz sender and keep my factory gauge.
Sensor Ice_water Room_Temp Hot_water
2rz 2200 ohm 964 ohm 200 ohms
22RE 1800 ohm 823 ohm 200 ohms
Oil pressure sender ohmed out different – so I used the 22RE sender and installed it on the 2RZ. Here’s a photo of the 22RE sender – AND an aftermarket sender that I added to the 2rz motor:
So then I integrated the harnesses:
2RZ side 4runner Side Function
(2) Black/Red Red 12V ignition source Coil 12v
Gray Yellow/Black Oil Pressure Gauge (use the 22RE oil pressure sender)
Yellow/Red Yellow/Green Temperature Gauge (OK to use the 2rz sender)
- Throttle cable? http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/475469-just-some-84-85-3rz-swap-tech.html
Custom AC lines option
- Use the 22RE fan and clutch (clutch needs bigger holes)